Rock Island & Great Falls Gorge (TN)

Sunset casts an orange filter on an established farm in the rural Rock Island area

An hour of spirited driving northwest of Fall Creek Falls, you’ll arrive in the beautifully rural Rock Island & Great Falls Gorge area.  This rugged—yet fertile piece of Cumberland Plateau is mostly defined by the confluence of several rivers around the Rock Island peninsula.

With perhaps the exception of the 18th Century battles involving Lieutenant Snoddy and the Chickaauga (which just “sounds" like a GREAT story), the area is steeped in a chronological timeline of the quest to harness the tremendous powers and resources of these converging rivers.

“Playful river, ever laughing;
Pleading river, always calling;
Rushing river, now unwieldy;
Wild, deep river, oft defiant.”
~ Dr. R. P.  Hudson (poet); Ode To The Caney Fork 

The late 1800’s saw industry-minded entrepreneurs coming to this area to harness the power of the rivers; only to have their property scattered downstream following the destructive and unpredictable floods that were common to this area.  Early 20th Century attempts to harness the river’s force by means of a series of dams met similar fates.  The river was too wild and unyielding to be harnessed.

“…and thou shalt smite the rock, and there shall come water out of it…” ~ Exodus 17:6 (KJV)

"Twin Falls" pouring out of the gorge rock face.

In 1917 the Great Falls Hydroelectric Plant was completed.  Although it sustained significant damage in the “Good Friday Flood of ’29;” the dam held, and is still standing intact today.  The creating of the dam caused the Collins River to rise behind the dam.  The unbridled river—refusing to let a man-made structure obstruct its path—carved a pathway through the earth.  With tremendous power and volume, the Collins River pushed into underground caverns and ruptured through the many stone fractures as it made its short-cut down to the Caney Fork.  Named “Twin Falls,” this most extraordinary waterfall provides a visualization that there is no river feeding it.

Wes & Buddy hiking towards the bottom of the gorge cliffs

On the far bank from the Great Falls Hydroelectric Plant is a 2-mile trail that starts at the top of the gorge, and loops down to follow the winding river.  The layered rock form sheer cliffs that oversee the narrow, damp gorge below.  In this middle-ground between the jagged cliffs and the rushing rapids lies a lush, pseudo-rain forest; with springs casting aquatic webs across the rich, damp, fern-covered peat.

One of many springs that "appear" out of the walls of the gorge.

The trail traverses several of large springs—ascending and descending where the river has eroded any possibility of a level trek—and ends on an outcropping peninsula that features an upstream view lined with dozens of mini-waterfalls.

Narrow trail with steep declines to the rushing river below.

At various points along the trail, there is a sheer drop-off to the river some 30’ below.  There are also many vertical vantage points that leave the observer unaware that they are standing upon ground that has had its foundation swept away by the river.  Fortunately, we never experienced any Wile E. Coyote moments.

Kristy & The Boys at the upstream overlook (on her first post-accident hike).

Further upstream lies the remains of aged industry that fell victim to the power of the river.  The Falls City Cotton Mill was spared destruction due to its high location on an elevated bluff; however, the essential wheel-house was washed away…leaving the cotton mill inoperable.  The cotton mill’s “Spring Castle” also survived, but was no longer needed to provide refrigeration to mill workers who suddenly became unemployed.

The "engine" that ran the cotton mill.

Falls City Cotton Mill spring "castle"; circa 1890's

Falls City Cotton Mill (aka Great Falls Cotton Mill); circa 1892

Although the violent convergence of this destructive force has been thoroughly documented, the river remains a source for recreational activities such as kayaking, tubing, and swimming.  A nearby sign signifies that although this river has been tamed, it will always be wild.

Even someone who has trouble with capitol "N's" can see the association between lifejacket use and drowning.

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